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Jeroen Merk, a researcher at the Worldwide Institute of Social Research of Erasmus University Rotterdam—and one of many few academics who's investigating the megasuppliers—says their enterprise model is intentionally organized to keep buyers separated from factories. If brands discover what factories charge, they might work with them directly and hold the margin for themselves. Some corporations ordering clothes via megasuppliers, he says, do not know which factories they were made in—and even which international locations.

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